Introduction
Traditional Bengali Cuisine that originated and evolved in the region of West Bengal situated in the eastern part of India is rich and varied in its platter starting from snacks to main courses to sweets. Although the food habits, tastes, preferences and choice of items vary with different districts, communities and religions, the basic course generally remains the same with rice and fish playing a dominant role. The nature of dishes found in Bengali cooking is unique. Ordinary food served at home is different from that served during social functions. Mustard oil is also an important ingredient across Bengal, as it adds a pungent flavour to dishes which is specific to these parts. Fish cuisine is one of its prominent features that distinguish it from the cooking of the non-coastal regions. Vegetables are also cooked in a very unique style by the Bengalis. Ambrosial dishes are made out of rejected peels, stalks and leaves of vegetables. Fuel-efficient methods such as steaming fish or vegetables are employed.
Historical Influences on Bengal Cuisine
Historical influences on Bengal cuisine were obvious as this place has been the seat of power for many rulers of different countries. Bengal has been under the sway of various Muslim rulers starting from the early thirteenth century onwards. Thereafter it was ruled by the British for two centuries (1757-1947). Bengal also had a share of immigrants which included Jews, Afghans and Chinese who settled down in and around Kolkata.
Some of the major historical influences as far as cuisine is concerned are:
Influence of the Nawabs : Bengal food witnessed a key influence when Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh was exiled to Metiabruz. It is considered that he had brought with him hundreds of cooks and spice mixers who, on his death, dissolute into the population and started restaurants and food carts all over Bengal thereby spreading an Awadhi legacy. These cooks came with the knowledge of a very wide range of spices especially that of saffron and mace use of ghee as a method of cooking and special ways of marinating meats. Items such as biryani, korma and bhuna have been their contributions. Specialties include chap, rezala and the famous kathi rolls.
European and Anglo Indian influences : Dutch and the French also had colonies in West Bengal who have had little impact on Bengal`s culinary habits Western immigrants like the Baghdadi Jews had set up some famous Jewish Bakeries. West Bengal`s Anglo-Indian community formed once-influential cuisine.
The Christian community had introduced the ritual of tea. Baking became widespread after the settlement of Britishers. Baked confectioneries were popular as the British had popularised the celebration of Christmas. The Jewish community made popular the puff pastries which are had along with tea. Chops and cutlets were British in origin but now has become a popular snack. The pound cake became common due to their influence. Local ingredients adapted to French and Italian cooking techniques-characterized by creamy sauces, less use of spices and new techniques such as baking. English and Jewish bakers such as Flury`s and Nahoum`s dominated the confectionery business that resulted in creations such as the petis. Western-style bread or locally called pau roti became a common snack.
Bengal`s Partition : The partition of Bengal separated West Bengal from East Bengal, which eventually became the present Bangladesh. This caused a significant change in all aspects. Kolkata as a city became prominent that wielded an influence in the cultural and food habits of West Bengal. Its offices, ports and bazaars attracted many communities like the Marwari and Chinese. These communities have lived for generations in Kolkata. Their influence has been in the sweet shops for instance Ganguram`s and street foods of Kolkata.
Other influences : Brahmin led very monastic lives within the household and lived under rigid dietary restrictions. Their food habits had an impact on the cuisine style. Widows were not allowed to use onions and garlic for the food that they ate and used ginger instead. Ginger found a place in Bengali curries, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian.
Mughal Influence : The Mughal influence is most discrete in meat preparations especially mutton. Chicken and other meats became prevalent. The influence was visible in desserts. This influence led to increased use of milk, cream and sugar along with expensive spices such as cardamom and saffron.
Raj-era influences : The cuisine of Raj era consisted of variety of finger foods that became popular in the `pucca` clubs of Kolkata like mutton chop, kabiraji cutlet.
Chinese Influences : The Chinese originally settled into a village called Achipur south of Kolkata in the late 18th century. Later they moved into the city and finally into the present home in Tangra at the eastern edge of Kolkata. Chinese food became available at almost every street corner in Kolkata. The Chinese opened restaurants for Bengalis. They spiced up the bland Cantonese sauces with sliced chillies and hot sauces, creating unique dishes such as Chicken sweet corn soup, Chinese fried rice, Chowmein, Chilli Chicken and Manchurian dishes.
Spices in Traditional Bengali Cuisine
Traditional Bengali Cuisine is vast and elaborate and it has been special due to the various uses of sweet and spicy flavours. The use of spices for both non-vegetarian and vegetarian dishes is quite widespread and includes combinations which are not found in other parts of India. A variety of spices and their mixes are used in preparing Bengali cuisine, the common ones being halud (turmeric), jira (cumin), dhone (coriander) radhuni (wild celery seeds), kalo jira (black onion seeds), dried red chilli, bay leaves, shorshe (mustard), posto (poppy seed), methi (fenugreek), mouri (fennel), peyaj (onion), ada (ginger), narikel (ripe coconut) and a combination of five spices called "Panch Phoron" which comprise of kalo jeera, cumin, black mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel. The use of freshly-ground mustard paste is again one of the common ingredients of Bengali dishes. Mustard paste known as "Kasundi" in Bengali language is an accompanying dipping sauce which is very common in Bengal.
Rice in Bengali Cuisine
Rice in Bengali cuisine occupies a rather important place. Rice essentially is the chief diet of the Bengalis. When it is sold as par-boiled, it is semi prepared. In some cases it is sold as unpolished, still retaining the colour of the husk. It forms the basis of almost all meals in Bengal and takes many forms in its preparation. There is a great variety and quality of different types of rice found here. According to some agricultural experts, the terrain is varied enough to grow 10,000 indigenous varieties of rice. Apart from this great variety, the different ways of processing rice help to create a whole universe out of this one particular grain- puffed rice, rice flakes, popped rice (plain or coated with sugar), each with variants, depending on the strain of rice they are derived from and the way they are prepared and eaten. The first two are used usually as snacks. Lightly fermented rice is also used as breakfast in rural and agrarian communities.
Rice Flakes in Bengali Cuisine : Rice flakes feature prominently in both the chharas and the folktales of Bengal because they are easy to carry for the intrepid hero setting out on his travels and because of their versatility in complementing many other foods. In the heat of a tropical summer afternoon, the flakes, soaked in cool water and accompanied by milk or yogurt, ground coconut, summer fruits like banana or mango, made a meal that was both soothing and filling. Many preparations are made for the visiting son-in-law (the mortal deity who held the happiness or misery of the daughter in his hands) by his attentive mother-in-law. For the traveller, rice flakes could simply be soaked in the water from a river or lake and eaten with a bit of sugar. The longer the grains and the more delicate the variety of rice, the lighter and tastier the rice flakes.
Rice in Bengali Rituals : The importance of rice in Bengal is evident from the fact that it flows forth from the domain of food to various other spheres as well. In the various offerings that are made to Gods and Goddesses, rice forms an integral. Unhusked rice and trefoil grasses are presented to the deities along with whole and cut fruits and other foods. Even in the various rituals that are performed, the role of rice is pivotal. In weddings, apart from the "Alpanas", which are joyously painted all over the house and on the pins (low rectangular wooden stools) where the bridal pair will sit, rice is also used to signify the auspiciousness of the ceremony. On the night before the wedding, women in the bride`s family build a small mound of rice powder, called a "Sree". This is supposed to be a symbol of Goddess Lakshmi whose favour is essential to the success of the marriage. Even in the field of art, the preparation of paper and colour for painting shows again how integrated rice is with the expression of the artistic impulse of Bengal. Glue, prepared by boiling crushed rice, is applied to individual sheets of paper which were glued together to form a thick pad for the paintings of the patuas. Even for the purposes of colouring, burnt rice which was crushed and made into a powder was used. And the choice of rice (paste) as the primary medium of painting reaffirms the importance of rice in the region.
Importance of Rice in Bengali Cuisine : The importance of this crop in Bengal`s life is therefore of great significance, one that has led to rice being considered synonymous with Goddess Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, prosperity and grace. Even when sated, Bengalis are reluctant to waste or discard the portion of rice on their plates, lest the goddess perceive it as an insult and withdraw her favours.
Meal in Traditional Bengali Cuisine
A Bengali meal follows a multi-course tradition where food is served course-wise usually in a specific format, marking it as the only meal of the subcontinent to have evolved such convention. Generally a typical traditional Bengali meal comprises of plain white rice, pinch of salt, ghee, gondhoraj lebu or the Bengali lime, daal, bhaja, vegetable, fish, mutton/ chicken, chutney and lastly dessert.