Pattu weaving, famous in Rajasthan, is now a well known form of weaving in entire western India. Western Rajasthan is famous for this particular weaving style of special shawls or blanket, the pattu, which is a term derived from the word patti, meaning a narrow strip.
This traditional wear pattu is mostly seen in the areas of Jaisalmer, Barmer and surrounding villages. Camel and sheep wool, available in natural colours of cream, brown and black are extensively used to weave the pattu. Of late, however, the introduction of synthetic dyes and cotton fibre has added colours like bright red, saffron, blue, green, pink and orange to this time-honoured palette. The fabric is worked upon in a twill weave on a pit loom and countless patterns are created through the methods of interlocking and extra weft figuring. In the warping, vertical warp bands in complementary colours are placed on the either sides of the loom and the interlocking technique is used to get a pure colour on these bands. A bobbin carries a weft in the same colour as the distinct band, is used to weave the restricted sections of the bands.
Extra weft figuring brings about an embroidery-like effect on the loom. The extra weft is wound on a small stick that is passed between a minimum of two and a maximum of twelve picks. The weaver lifts the warp yarns and hands it to insert the extra weft yarn. The local Meghval community is specialists in creating a multiplicity of beautiful pattus like the hiravali pattu, baladi check, and kashida pattu. The two other famous designs from this region are the bhojsari and malani. Weavers, in and around Rajasthan, employ the same process to make a woollen dhabla and other lower garment of the Gujar and Kumhar women.
The motifs have a particular geometric course and are inspired from house. Different kinds of articles and the wall and floor paintings called mandana also have similar motifs. Each pattu has a characteristic joint in the central area. This is because the piece that is essentially woven on the loom has a narrow width. Two strips are joined to create the pattu, which is worn by both men and women. The bright, colourful pattu is warm and long enough to drape around the body. Farmers, shepherds and others use it extensively in the rural areas of Rajasthan during the winters.
