In the Indian states of Punjab, Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh and Haryana and Gujarat, traditional dress is "Salwar Kameez". In the states of Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and southern Haryana and Gujarat, it is "Ghagra Choli". Pagri is worn in various region styles and is symbol which shows one"s status and the respect in which one is held. In urban centres and as well as rural areas western influence can easily be seen nowadays.
Women in North India traditionally wear Salwar Kameez, Ghagra Choli, Saree and Phiran. Dupatta is worn to complete the outfit. Men traditionally wear Kurta, Achkan, Kameez and Sherwani for upper garment, lower garment includes Dhoti, Churidar, Salwar and Lungi. Pagri is usually worn around head to complete the outfit, especially in rural areas.
Phulkari, Salwar Kameez
Phulkari is a popular Indian form of embroidery where there is flower work embroidery in multiple colours. It is the rural traditional Punjabi dress for women of this region. It is a custom in Punjab to make a Phulkari known as “bagh†(garden) on every ceremonial purpose. It is made in such a way that the entire cloth is covered with embroidery that the base cloth cannot be seen at all. The salwar kameez is the most common Punjabi dress for women. A dupatta or a churni about 2.5 metres long generally completes the ensemble. It"s a matter of pride for every Punjabi women to have a good collection of Woollen Shawls.
Damaan, Kurti and Chunder
Like Punjab, the costumes of Haryana are also very vibrant and colourful. The simplicity of the people of Haryana and their spirited enthusiasm for life is visible in their way of dressing up. The basic traditional dress of Haryani women is the Damaan, Kurti and Chunder. The Damaan is the ankle length, flairy long skirt, available in bright colours. Kurti is a waist length shirt or blouse, usually in light colours. Chunder is actually the long, coloured piece of cloth like the churni. The highlight of the Chunder is usually the shiny laces all among the border and is used to cover the head and is drawn in the front like the "pallu" of a saree.
Phiran
The most popular attire of women in Jammu and Kashmir is the Phiran. Kashmiri Phiran is long, loose gowns that cover the physique of the women. These gowns are decorated with colourful floral motifs and designs. Whereas a Muslim woman wears a Phiran that is knee-length, loose and embroidered in front and on the ends, a Hindu woman wear their Phirans long, stretching up to their feet with narrowed down sleeves. Phirans are tied at the waist with folded material called "Lhungi". Hindu women wear a "Taranga", a headdress, stitched to a suspended cap and it narrows down at the back, towards the heels. On the other hand, Muslim Kashmiri women wear a red headgear known as the "Kasaba". The kasaba is stitched in the form of a turban and is pinned together by brooches. A pin-scarf suspended from the kasaba descends towards the shoulder. Elaborate embroideries or floral patterns are a prominent feature of a Kashmiri woman`s Phiran.
Ghaghra Choli
The traditional dress of a Rajasthani woman is the Ghagra-Choli and Odhani. It is said that the width and the number of pleats in the "Ghagra" or the long ankle length skirt symbolize one"s prosperity. The dress is available in many colours and styles. Rajasthan is famous for tie and dye prints or Bandhani prints. The traditional dresses of Rajasthani women display a colourful look with their colourful motifs and prints in tie dye. Rajasthan traditional dresses of women are vibrant and extremely well-suited to the climatic conditions of the desert region.
Though the modern influence and urbanization is also reflected in the changing attire of the state, the traditional dress continues to exist in perfect harmony with modern ways of dressing.