Introduction
Bijapur is now a modern city in Bijapur district in Karnataka. It is also a medieval city witnessed many Muslim Dynasties in South India. Bijapur is a place for excursion also. Some of the popular tourist destinations near Bijapur are Aihole, Basavana Bagevadi, Alamatti Dam, Badami, Gulbarga, Bidar, Mysore and Bengaluru.
Location of Bijapur
Bijapur is located 530 km West of Bengaluru. It was once the centre of the Bahamani Dynasty and later the capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur. Bijapur is dotted with many sculptural evidences in medieval era. Bijapur or Vijayapura is located at 16.83 degrees north and 75.7 degrees east at an elevation of 1988 feet.
History of Bijapur
Bijapur was established in 10th or 11th century by the Chalukyas of Kalyani. The name Bijapur is a derivative of the name `Vijaypura `or city of victory as it was originally called. Bijapur from the early era observed the rise and fall of Yadavas of Devagiri, Khalji dynasty in the 13th Century, the Bahmani Sultanate, Mughal dynasty, Nizams of Hyderabad, the Maratha Empire and the British East India Company. After Independence of India in 1947, it was briefly a part of Mumbai (Bombay Presidency) before being added to the state of Karnataka in 1956. Bijapur reached its greatest heights under the rulers of the Adil Shahi Dynasty of Bijapur, particularly, Yusuf Adil Shah, the founder of the independent state of Bijapur.
Geography of Bijapur
Bijapur lies at the central part of Deccan Plateau region with the latitudinal limit of 16.83 degree North to 75.7 degree East. The summers are usually dry as well. The monsoon ushers in generally in the month of June and stays till October. The average annual rainfall received is 552.8 mm.
Demography of Bijapur
The urban area of Bijapur has more than 3 lakh population. It was counted according to the Population Census 2011. The urban and rural population of the entire Bijapur district is more than 21 lakhs. The average literacy rate is 84 percent.
Education in Bijapur
Bijapur is known for its high literacy rate. This fact is apparent from the host of educational institutes that are scattered in the city of Bijapur. Besides the usual schools and colleges, there are engineering colleges and medical colleges. There are a number of Ayurvedic and Allopathic medical colleges here. Besides these an educational institute for Unani medicine is also to be found here.
Tourism in Bijapur
Bijapur offers a number of places of tourist attractions. Some of the tourist attractions here are the Gol Gumbaz, the tomb of the ruler Mohammad Adil Shah; Asar Mahal, Gagan Mahal, Anand Mahal, Saat Manzli, Jhanjiri Masjid, Andu Mosque, Mecca Masjid, Ibrahim Rauza, King Edward VII Memorial, Malik-e-Maidan, Upli Buruj, Chand Bawdi, Saat Kabar, Jami Masjid, Jod Gumbaz, Jala Manzil, Landa Kasab Gun, Mehatar Mahal, Landa Kasab, Hathi Khana and Chini Mahal. The ruins of the ancient fort here, built by the Adil Shahis, are also a sight to behold here.
Monuments of Bijapur
The monuments of Bijapur are a well established historical legacy of the Adil Shahi dynasty. Bijapur is the headquarters of the Bijapur district of the state of Karnataka, and an approach to the city from all directions is strikingly evocative-it is lined with an array of domes, fortifications, minarets and noble buildings, dominated by the glorious dome of the Gol Gumbaz. The monuments of Bijapur are of note not only within the city but are the prime attractions among all the monuments of Karnataka.
The `Palmyra of the Deccan`, as Bijapur is often referred to, was the capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty founded by Yusuf Khan, younger brother of the Sultan of Turkey, Muhammad. He founded the in 1490 and at the height of its power, Bijapur covered a huge tract of land in Central India extending as far as Goa and the West coast. In fact what is now called the city is only the core of a much larger settlement of over 48 km in circuit, of which the present city was merely the central fort.
Historical Monuments:
Bijapur is strewn with monuments of historical significance as well as religious interest. Most of the monuments in Bijapur are representations of Islamic architecture. Most of the monuments of the period are credited to the Adil Shahi rulers. They are almost single-handedly responsible for the cultural legacy of Bijapur and the various works of architecture that abound in the city.
The most dominant architectural constructions are the various palaces or Mahals.Of notable significance is the fact that all these palaces are huge, lofty structures with intricate carvings and pillars. All the palaces have beautiful ceilings which are remarkably constructed and adorned. A few of the most noted mahals include the Asar Mahal, the Gagan Mahal, Anand Mahal, Saat manzli, Chini Mahal etc. Other kinds of historical monuments are also to be found here, such as the remains of the fort built by the Adil Shahis, Landa Kasab, Hathi Khana, Mehtar Mahal etc.
Religious Monuments:
Bijapur being a chiefly Muslim society, a number of religious monuments of Islamic worship are also found here. The city is full of tombs, mosques and mausoleums, most of them constructed by the Muslim rulers who held sway here for centuries. By far the biggest draw of the city is the Gol Gumbaz- the mausoleum of Muhammad Adil Shah II. Built in typical Islamic architectural style, it is a grand and lofty affair with a huge dome occupying an area of almost 600 feet. Apart from this there are also a number of other tombs such as the tomb of Ali Adil Shah I, Ali Adil Shah II, the Ibrahim Rauza, the Sikander Rauza, Jor Gumbaz etc. Noted mosques include the Jami Masjid, Jhanjiri Mosque, Andu Masjid and Mecca Masjid among many others.
The monuments of Bijapur therefore rank high, both in number as well as significance. The Indo-Islamic architecture in Bijapur is resplendent in its beauty and a tribute to the rulers who built them, particularly the Adil Shahis under whom architectural prowess had reached its zenith.
Historical Monuments of Bijapur
Bijapur was initially a fort city and as a result the remains of the fortifications can still be seen in and around here. It is these forts that constitute the historical monuments of Bijapur. For instance, the Walls of Bijapur run around the city and enclose it in a kind of circular ellipse, in a 10 km circumference. The walls have a broad platform with a battlemented parapet and regular bastions which used to carry guns. The holes for the gun pivots are still visible. Initially there had been no arrangement for the protection of the gunners, but later a kind of low shelter wall was built around each bastion which had embrasures that were large enough to be fired through. A deep most, about 40 to 50 feet wide, runs around the walls.
There are five main gates to the fort, and all of them have been made secure by means of bastions and covered approaches. These include- The Mecca Gate to the West which has figures of lions trampling on an elephant; to the North-west is the Shahpur Gate with long anti-elephant spikes; the Bahmani Gate lies to the North; the Alipur Gate or High Gate leads to the East and to the South West is the Fateh Gate (or Mongoli Gate) from where Aurangzeb had entered the land in 1686. Other smaller gates include the Zohrapur Gate and the Padshahpur Gate along with several `diddis` or posterns.
The citadel walls or the Arquila run a circuit of 520 feet, though long portions of it have been destroyed. They were strengthened by bastions, a ditch and a rampart and on the structure of the walls are seen engravings of early Hindu temple masonry. The main entrance to the fort was through the Arquila gate which now lies in ruins. It is approached from the south, past a covering wall and bartizan carrying an inscription and date (1544) between the inner and outer gates arc arcades and guardrooms. High on the right-hand bastion are two inscriptions. Only the skeletal form of the inner gateway remains.
The Burj-i-Sherza or lion bastion lies on the outer city walls, north of the Zohrapur Gate. According to an inscription, it was built in 1672 in just five months. The bastion has been embellished with two lion's heads.
Placed on a platform on the Burj-i-Sherza is one of the top draws of Bijapur- the Malik-i-Maidan.Translated into lord of the Battle plain, it is the largest medieval canon in the world, 4 feet long and measuring 1.5 m in diameter. The weight of the canon is 55 tons. It was cast in Ahmadnagar from bell metal and brought here in 1632 as a token of war. The nozzle is cast in the shape of a lion`s head with its fangs bared open and the head of an elephant between them. It has been seen that the canon remains cool even in strong sunlight, and when it is tapped it tinkles like a bell. Around the touch hole is the inscription of its maker, Muhammad Bin Husain Rumi. The original pivot and carriage have gone. The canon was auctioned in 1854, but later the sail was cancelled.
To the East of the Burj-i- Sherza is the Upari Burj or upper bastion. Also referred to as the Haider Burj, it consists of an oval tower 61 feet in height. It has an outer staircase on which is found a Persian inscription which states the time of construction of the Burj as 1583. Above are two guns strapped together by iron bands. The larger is called the `Lamcharri` or Far-flier.
On the south wall the Landa Kasab bastion carries the largest gun in Bijapur. It measures 6-55 m (21 ft 7 in) long and weighs 47 tons.
A number of beautiful `Mahals` or palaces are also found adding to the splendour of Bijapur.
On the edge of the citadel moat is the Asar Mahal. It was built as a Hall of Justice and was later used to house two hairs from the Prophet`s beard. The ceiling which is beautifully coffered and painted is supported by four huge teak pillars. It forms a kind of portico facing a large tank. There is a staircase leading to a large hall where carpets and brocades are displayed. At the base of the staircase is the `Kitabkhana` or library. To the right is an upper veranda which looks down on the portico. The three doors leading from the gallery are ribbed and inlaid with geometric patterns. Inside, the walls and ceilings arc painted with figures and leaves, the room off the south side of the gilded hall being notable. From the balcony there is a beautiful view of the eastern part of the town. A bridge once linked the Asar Mahal to the citadel. To the North lie the remains of the other buildings, the Jehaz Mahal complex.
The Gagan Mahal or Heavenly Palace was built by Ali Adil Shah I in 1561. It lies to the west of the citadel, close to the moat, and faces north. It used to be the Durbar Hall and is easily identified by the huge central arch flanked by two tall narrow arches which form its facade. The span of the central arch is 61 ft, the height of all three 50 ft. It is alleged that Aurangzeb accepted the submission of the king and nobles here in 1686.
The most prominent among all the palaces in the citadel is the Anand Mahal or Palace of Delight. It was constructed in 1589 by Adil Shah II.The palace contains a fine open hall and in all probability contained the private apartments and zenana.However it has remained largely unfinished and has been impaired by later additions.
At the western end of the citadel is the Sat Manzili or Seven Storeys (1583), of which only five remain. Situated to the south-west of the Gagan Mahal, this palace was built in 1583 and lies at the corner of a range of buildings. It is a distinctive building with a large number of water pipes and cisterns, probably intended as a pleasure house. Traces of figures can be seen on the walls. From the top of the palace there is an excellent view of the citadel.
At the south end of the range of buildings is the Chini Mahal. It used to be the public palace of the kings, where audiences were held. It is probably so-named because of the tiling which once decorated the building. Inside is a fine hall, 128 ft long, rising to the roof and flanked by suites of rooms. To the front is a lofty open veranda.
To the east of the Gagan Mahal lies the Adalat Mahal or Hall of Justice. It has been extensively rebuilt, with a small mosque on the north side and a pretty pavilion or pleasure house to the cast. It was converted into the collector`s residence.
To the east of the Adalat Mahal is the Arash Mahal, which showcases some fine masonry detail. This is also now a converted building, currently used as the Civil Surgeon`s residence.
Mustafa Khan`s Mosque and Palace is situated to the East of the citadel, out in the fields. There are three tall arches in the facade with the centre one being wider that the other two. Octagonal buttresses which were meant to carry the minarets flank the fa‡ade. The central bay masses up by pendentives into a fourteen-sided figure and from this rises the dome. The remains of Mustafa Khan`s Palace lie behind the mosque. He had a very important role to play in forging the alliance between Ahmadnagar, Bidar, Bijapur and Golconda which led to the destruction of Vijayanagara at the Battle of Talikota.The Bari Kaman lies a short distance to the south. It is a great archway which seems to have been the entrance to the Palace grounds.
In the South-East corner of town is located Mubarak Khan`s Mahal.It is built as display of waterworks on all levels, with a shower bath on the roof.
Apart from the palaces, there are a number of other historical monuments which may be seen at Bijapur.
There is an ornamental gateway leading to the Mehtar mosque, known as the Mehtar Mahal. Built in 1620, it is a small but elegant gateway covered with intricate ornamental detail and surmounted by two slender minarets.
The Jal mandir is a water pavilion which stands in front of the Sat Manzili.Whereas it once stood in the middle of a reservoir, it now stands in the centre of the road. The road crosses the moat from this point.
The Hathi Khana found here was possibly used as a stable to house the elephants. There are high walls here which may have been intended to keep the animals sheltered from the sun.
Adjacent is the Bijjanhalli tower is an old water tower which belonged to an earlier village on the site. This was probably later used for grain storage.
The Dekhani Igdah lies on the highest ground within the walls of Bijapur. It belongs to 1590, and is an ancient building probably designed by Malik Sandal.
Religious Monuments of Bijapur
The monuments of Bijapur show a strong religious inclination in terms of the number of tombs and mosques found here. The most famous monument in Bijapur is the Gol Gumbaz, Mausoleum of Muhammad Adil Shah II (1627-57). It is the largest and most conspicuous building in Bijapur and one of the most celebrated in India. The Gumbaz was built during the peak of architectural prowess of the Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur.
Gol Gumbaz was constructed in 1659 by a masterbuilder, Yaqut Dabuli. It resembles a giant cube, crowned by a hemispherical dome. The dome is the second largest in the world, with a diameter of almost 600 feet, next only to St. Peter`s in Rome.
One of the most outstanding aspects of its construction is the use of groined compartments or pendentives, which counteract the outer thrust of the dome. There are three inscriptions over the south doorway which gives the date of Muhammad Adil Shah`s death as 1657. His tomb lies right below the tomb at the centre of the chamber. Also contained in the Gumbaz are the graves of his wives, son and mistress. It is now a museum.
The Tomb of Ali Adil Shah I, built in 1580, is a plain edifice, rectangular in plan, surrounded by a corridor and containing four tombs. At the south-eastern corner is a high platform with a beautiful dark-green tombstone in the centre. It is not exactly known who lies in this grave, but clearly it is a person of rank.
To the North of the citadel, is the unfinished Tomb of Ali Adil Shah II .It was built in 1650 with the intention to surpass every other monument in the city. A large dome over the central enclosure was meant to be the centrepiece. Moreover, the base measures 215 feet, compared to the 158 feet on the gumbaz. However, only the outer arcade of curious-looking Gothic arches remains. The masonry has been left undressed; ready for plastering. The tomb of Adil Shah is contained in a raised platform in the inner enclosure. To the southwest corner, a small platform for a female, reputed to be the tomb of Khursheed Khanam, mother of Sikander Rauza, the last of the Bijapur Sultans. Apart from these, there are a total of thirteen other graves found here.
Lying to the west of the city, 365 m from the Mecca gate, is the Ibrahim Rauza a splendid group of buildings which includes the tombs of Ibrahim Adil Shah II and his Queen, Taj Sultana. It was designed by Malik Sandal in 1626 and is enclosed by a high wall pierced by a tall gateway with corner minarets. Within it are two large buildings facing each other and set on a raised plinth.
The entire structure is over a basement. The mosque and tomb are contained within a square compound, based on a common raised terrace with a tank and fountain between them. The mosque has a facade of five arches and contains a rectangular shaped prayer chamber. This is kept in shade by a chhaja and at each corner is a slender minaret. A huge dome with a row of petal shaped protrusions at its base is contained within a square fenestration.
The tomb is square in shape and almost similarly constructed. It has double aisles around it, the inner one pillared. There are two narrow arches that break up the facade. On the inside, there are three arches on each wall each one panelled, decorated and embellishment with arabesque, floral and inscriptional traceries. The Chamber with the tomb has a curved and low ceiling and is separated by an empty space from the dome.
A number of secret passages are also said to exist within the structure with the possibility of hidden treasure. It has often been said that the garden tomb of Ibrahim Adil Shah II was the inspiration behind the beautiful Taj Mahal built by Shah Jahan.
There are two domed tombs close to the Mecca Gate known as the Jor Gumbaz or Two Sisters. The octagonal one is the Tomb of Khan Muhammad and of his son, Khawas Khan, Wazir to Sikander. Khan Muhammad was assassinated for his treachery in the field. The tomb has a high dome which springs from a foliated band of ornament. Within is a fine chamber. The plain square tomb is the Mausoleum of Abdul Razzak Qadir, the religious tutor of Khawas Khan and a man much revered. To the west is a third tomb, said to be that of Siddi Kalian, a minister under Muhammad.
The Tomb of Jehan Begum is similar in size and design to the Gol Gumbaz, with similar corner towers, but it is unfinished. It is uncertain precisely whose tomb this is; possibly the third wife of Muhammad Adil Shah II or his mother. Towards the Haidar Burj bastion, is the Sikander Rauza, a large plain tomb of the last of the Bijapur sultans (1672-86). Near the South East corner of the Jami Masjid lie the Tomb of Shah Karim Muhammad Qadri (1741) and that of Sayyid Abdul Rahman Qadri. Both boast ceilings alleged to be coated in pulverized mother of pearl, the latter with some pretty stucco work and iron bosses on the doors.
The Tomb of Ain-ul-Mulk is 2 miles to the east of the city. Built in 1565, it is a massive square building with an elegant dome and some pendant stuccowork. Adjacent is the mosque. The tomb and mosque of Yakut Dabuli is a beautiful one, enriched with lattice screens. He is known to have decorated the mihrab in the Jama Masjid in Bijapur. Over his tomb runs the inscription: `One atom of divine grace is better than to be chief of 1,000 villages."
The tomb and mosque of Malik Sandal, the architect of Bijapur, can also be found here. It is a beautiful but modest edifice. Within the enclosed courtyard is a small canopy beneath which is a woman`s tomb, possibly that of his mother. One of the open-air tombs is that of the architect himself. In one corner is a primitive mosque. The other buildings contain arcades and tombs. Just to the north, the small canopied tomb with a ribbed dome is called the Kamrak-i-Gumbaz.
The cenotaph, mosque and palace of Afzul Khan can also be seen here. Afzul Khan died at the hands of the Maratha leader Chatrapati Shivaji at Partabgarh, where he was disembowelled by the latter with a baghnakh (tiger`s claw).He began the construction of his tomb and attendant mosque during his own lifetime. The mosque was completed in 1653 but the tomb remained unfinished. It is believed that he had a premonition of his own death before he went to meet Chatrapati Shivaji and is said to have personally put the date 1658 on his own cenotaph. It is said that he drowned his sixty-four wives in anticipation of his own demise. Beside the tomb is the mosque, a two-storey affair, the upper level reserved for the women of the zenana. To the south lie the ruins of his palace.
Some way south-west of this, in a grove of trees, is a platform with a large tank: the Muhammad Sarovar. On the platform are eleven rows of identical tombs, sixty-three in all, reputed to contain the remains of the drowned wives.
Also found here are the tombs of Chingdi Shah and Begum Sahiba, the wife of Aurangzeb.
A number of mosques are found in and around Bijapur, symbolic of the strong Islamic influence here.
The Jami Masjid lies to the south-west of the Gol Gumbaz, on the south side of the road leading from Alipur to the citadel. The construction of the mosque was started by Ali Adil Shah (1558-80) but was not completed until 1686. It is a finely proportioned building with arcaded sides and a large inner courtyard containing fountains and a reservoir. The mosque proper lies across the west end of the court, with a facade of nine bays crowned by a huge dome, probably the best proportioned in the city. The pavement is divided into rectangular compartments resembling prayer rugs, one for each worshipper. The subdivision was ordered by Aurangzeb. There are 2,250 spaces. The mihrab, gilded and inscribed with Persian verses, is from the time of Muhammad Adil Shah. It was designed by Yakut Dabuli.
Ali Shahid Pir`s mosque lies to the south of Mehtar mahal. There is a wagon-vaulted roof covering the entire structure. It has a finely-modelled facade enriched with receding lines of moulding around the arches, which lead to a deep-set appearance. Each end of the facade ends in a short, thin minaret Traces of the original encaustic tiles and enamel can be seen on the decorated mihrab, which, unusually, has a door inserted in it, providing access from outside. Above is a dome breaking the roof line. Adjoining the mosque is the tomb of Hazrat Sayyid Ali Shahid, after whom the mosque is named.
The Old Mosque lies to the north west of the gate, not very far from the Chini mahal. The Old Mosque has been constructed from an earlier Jain temple. The Mandapa has been used as a porch, and the inner doorway with perforated screens is Muslim. The main body of the mosque is built from a strange assortment of salvaged masonry, using Jain and Hindu pillars of various patterns and heights. There is an inscription in the upper part which states that Malik Karim-ud-Din built this section in 1320 and Revoy was the carpenter. Other inscriptions in the Sanskrit language and Kannada language survive even today.
The Jhanjiri Mosque was built in 1600 by Ibrahim Adil Shah II in the honour of his daughter Malika Jehan. It is a compact, well-proportioned building with a rich facade. The central arch is cusped, the cornice and brackets finely chased, the outer edge of the former cut into scallops resembling lacework. Traceried windows, chhatris and perforated parapets enhance the delicacy of the composition.
Mecca Masjid (1669) is a lovely little mosque enclosed by high walls with crisply carved details. The massive minarets constructed from rough material are the only remnants of an earlier mosque on the site. The great walls are curious. Given the presence of the four large arched openings on the south face, it is evident that they were not intended for defence.
The Andu Masjid is located in the South West corner of the city on the East side of the road running south from the citadel to the Landa Kasab bastion. It was constructed in 1608 by Itbar Khan, one of the ministers of Ibrahim Adil Shah II. The entire structure is a two-storey building with a mosque situated on the second storey and a rest. There are three bays with four small minarets in the facade. The masonry is exceptionally fine and the whole affair is crowned by a ribbed melon-shaped dome, a pattern which is repeated on the domes to the minars. The dome and crest of the building are adorned with lace-like fringes.
The Chinch Diddi Mosque is situated on a bastion close to the east wall of the citadel. It overlooks the Asar Mahal. It is a plainly detailed building with some wall paintings within.
The Bukhara Masjid has some beautiful detailing work done. The brackets to the cornice and the internal stucco ornaments are notable. It was once occupied as the Post and Telegraph Office.
The Zamrud Masjid is a miniature mosque that is considered to be the smallest in the city at 12 feet. The mural carries Persian inscriptions from the holy Quran.
The Jami Masjid of Ibrahim I was built in 1551.It is an old-fashioned mosque with central piers and brick and mortar minarets over the corners.
The Chota Asar is a small mosque with rich stucco work which covers the walls, ceiling and facade.
The Atnin Dargahis located about 2 miles beyond the Shahapur Gate. It has a prominent white dome which forms a local landmark. On the way to the Dargah is an old sarai or inn, which was once the jail. The view from the hilltop across the surrounding countryside, which is dotted with mosques, tombs and ruins, is worthwhile. It contains a collection of old pictures.
Bijapur abounds in monuments each of which tells a tale about the great city as it existed during the reign of its ancient rulers. It was primarily a Muslim society, the effects of which are seen in the Indo-Islamic style of architecture adopted in the construction of the various monuments.
Visiting Information
Bijapur is connected with roadways, railways and airways. The nearest airport is Belgaum (205 kms). Bijapur is connected by rail to Bengaluru, Mumbai, (via Sholapur), Sholapur (via Gadag) and Vasco da Gama(via Hubli and Londa). The buses of Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation ply from Bijapur to Badami, Bengaluru, Belgaum District, Hubli and Sholapur. Bijapur is connected by road to- Aihole (129 kms), Mumbai (486 kms), Badami(132 kms), Hampi (254 kms), Bengaluru (81 kms), Pattadakal (148 kms) and Belgaum (205 kms).
