Home > Society > Costumes in India > Paithani Sarees
Paithani Sarees
Paithani Sarees are traditional hand woven sarees which signify excellent craftsmanship.

Share this Article:

Paithani SareesPaithani sarees are a part of cultural heritage of Maharashtra. It originated in the little town called Paithan in Aurangabad. These sarees are made of three kinds of silk namely, ciddle-gatta silk, china silk and charka silk, using the weaving and dyeing technique. Paithani saris are weaved on ancient tapestry looms which are operated manually. These sarees are enriched with zari (golden and silver threads), which gives it ornamental sheen and value. They are completely hand woven and extreme labor is a prerequisite to their creation. The time period required to complete one such saree ranges from 1 month to 2 years depending on the complexity and the length of the design. The real paithani saris are hand woven with real silver or gold and pure silk, so it being one of the expensive sarees in India, is not subject to amazement.

History of Paithani Sarees
Creation of paithani sarees is an age old art. Therefore, these sarees are of great antiquity. The art of creating paithani sarees dates back to 200 B.C, during the Satvahana era. Since then it is passed on from generation to generation. As it was generally created by womenfolk, the daughters would be blessed with the skill of creating these sarees. It was held in high esteem by the western travellers who used to pay for it in gold and gems. It is believed that the Nizam of Hyderabad was also attracted to the Paithani and made several trips to the small town of Paithani. His daughter-in-law, Niloufer, is believed to have introduced new motifs to the border and pallav (outer end of the saree) designs.

Weaving of Paithani Sarees
The paithani saree is an entirely hand woven item. Before weaving the saree the raw silk which is obtained from Bengaluru is cleaned with caustic soda. Then it is dyed into the different colours required. A particular colour is used for weaving lengthwise while another is used width wise. The silk threads are then separated by women and then they are ready to be woven. The whole family is involved in the weaving of this saree.

Paithani SareesFeatures of Paithani Sarees
Paithani sarees have typical features. Most paithani sarees are made from silk and gold fabrics, some in cotton too. Length-wise and breadth-wise weaves create kaleidoscopic effects on these sarees. This effect is achieved by varying the weave. They have oblique square designed borders and peacock designed pallus. Famous motifs on paithani sarees are the Gautam Buddha, the Hans, the Ashraffi, the Asawall, the Bangadi Mor, the Tota-Maina, the Humarparinda, the Amar Vell and the Narali motif to name a few. Pallus of these sarees are embellished with motifs such as the Muniya, the Panja, the Barwa, the Laher, the Muthada or the Asawali. Weaves on the paithani sarees in ekdhoti or kad styles with narali borders and paisa buttis or wattana too are quite trendy during the weddings. Some paithani saree designs have certain weaves to add more touch of royalty to them, for example the kadiyal borders or the interlocked styles. Such paithani sarees are a bit more expensive than other paithani sarees. Spotted and plain designs are worn by senior-age ladies.

Types of Paithani Sarees
Paithani sarees are classified according to motifs, weaving, and colors.

Under motifs come Bangadi Mor, Munia Brocade and Lotus Brocade. The word bangadi means bangle and mor means peacock. So bangadi mor means a peacock in a bangle or in a bangle shape. The pallus are embellished with the design of the peacock. Due to this design these sarees are very expensive. Munia means parrot. Parrots are woven on the pallus as well as on the borders. Parrots are always in leaf green colour. The parrots in silk are also called tota-mania. Lotus brocade highlights that the pallus are embellished with lotus. The lotus motif consists of 7 to 8 colors.

Under weaving comes kadiyal border sari and kad or ekdhoti. Kadiyal means interlocking. The warp and the weft of the border are of the same color while the body has different colors for warp and weft. For weaving the weft of the kad or ekdhoti a single shuttle is used. The colours of the warp yarn are different from that of the weft yarn. It has a narali border and simple buttis like paisa and watana. Kad is also a form of lungi and is used by male Maharashtrians.

Different colours characterize different paithani sarees. Kalichandrakala is a pure black sari with red border. Parrot green coloured paithani sari is called Raghu. Pure white paithni sari is called Shirodak.

Maintenance of Paithani Sarees
Dry cleaning of paithani sarees is essential. It is also recommended to keep it away from scorching sunrays which might damage its silk threads. Tough washing should be avoided as the gold zari may get damaged.

This saree is generally used for festive clothing. Gifting paithani saris in a girl"s wedding trousseau is customary in the region of Maharashtra. This fabric today has stepped out of Maharashtra and has gained popularity among the people in India, United States, United Kingdom and Australia.

Related Articles:
Indian Silk Sarees
Maharashtra
Indian Costumes
Silk
Indian Clothing
Paithan


Share this Article:

Subscribe to Newsletter
Learn unknown facts about India from a curated list of informative articles.

Related Articles

More Articles in Costumes in India

Traditional Dresses of Jammu and Kashmir
The Traditional dresses of Jammu and Kashmir have historical significance to them and reflect the very rich cultural heritage of the state.
Traditional Dresses of Arunachal Pradesh
Traditional Dresses of Arunachal Pradesh reflect the ethnicity of the tribal population of the state. With 26 distinct tribes and over 100 sub-tribes, different tribes of this state wear different types of costumes.
Traditional Dresses of Assam
The traditional dress of Assam portrays the culture and essence of the state. People proudly follow the legacy left behind by their ancestors in the form of beautiful and exquisite pieces of traditional clothing worn during indigenous festivals and celebrations.
Traditional Dresses of Himachal Pradesh
Traditional Dresses of Himachal Pradesh are colourful and they vary from region to region, community to community, as well as from tribe to tribe.
Traditional Dresses of Madhya Pradesh
Traditional Dresses of Madhya Pradesh execute diversity in various aspects. Handicrafts and different textile techniques have given rise to a rich diversity of dresses of Madhya Pradesh.
Traditional Dresses of Meghalaya
The authentic and traditional dresses of Meghalaya reflect the cultural and social life of the tribal population of the state. The Khasi, Jaintias and Garos are the predominant tribes of Meghalaya region.
Traditional Dresses of Nagaland
Traditional Dresses of Nagaland mainly comprise shawls which are an extensively used item of the state. It is the most significant item used by the Naga people. The traditional dresses of Nagaland are worn mostly during the festivals.
Traditional Dresses of West Bengal
Traditional Dresses of West Bengal, with their exquisite design and traditional outlook, are appealing. The men’s and women’s wear have their own identity and characteristic features.
Traditional Dresses of Uttar Pradesh
Costumes of Uttar Pradesh are simple yet elegant. The people of Uttar Pradesh wear a variety of native and Western style dresses. They have separate category of costumes for daily wear and occasional wear as well.
Traditional Dresses of Manipur
Traditional Dresses of Manipur are simple and easy to wear. The patterns and designs on the costumes are very unique and colourful. Manipuris are setting new trends with their ancient and original attires.
Costumes of Punjab
Costumes of Punjab breathe vibrancy. Tradition marks the dress of the women:; colourful Salwar Kameez while Kurta-Pyjama or Lungi is worn by men.
Costumes of Bihar
Costumes of Bihar embody the rich cultural heritage of the state. Men don traditional outfits such as the Dhoti Mirjai, Kurta and Pajama, and Sherwani, while women grace themselves with elegant sarees and embellished lehengas.
Costumes of Jharkhand
Costumes of Jharkhand embody the simplicity and elegance of its inhabitants. From the one-piece Bhagwan worn by men to the sarees and Tussar silk sarees adorned by women, these costumes reflect the rich tribal heritage and cultural traditions of the region.
Costumes of Sikkim
Costumes and dresses of Sikkim reflect the youth and the zest that is integral to the people of this state. There are differences in clothing among the three communities of this state namely Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalis.
Costumes of Tripura
The costumes of Tripura have their own traditional ethnicity. The traditional costumes of Tripura, such as Risa, Rignai, and Rikutu Gamcha, reflect the unique cultural heritage of the state. Skilled weavers create exquisite fabrics with intricate designs and motifs inspired by nature and tribal traditions.
Costumes of Uttarakhand
The costumes of Uttarakhand, a culturally diverse region in the Himalayas, showcase the rich heritage and traditions of its various communities. From the vibrant sarees and traditional jewelry of Garhwali and Kumaoni women to the colorful attires and unique accessories of tribal groups like Jaunsarees and Bhotias, the costumes of Uttarakhand reflect the cultural diversity, distinct identities of its people, and a trend which is suitable to the climate of the region.
Costumes of Andaman and Nicobar Island
The costumes of Andaman and Nicobar Islands showcase a fascinating blend of indigenous tribal traditions and influences from modern settlers. While the compulsion of wearing costume for decency has not yet touched the tribes of Andaman and Nicobar islands, modern clothing adopted by certain communities reflects the diverse cultural fabric of the islands
Costumes of Lakshadweep
Costumes of Lakshadweep are embellished with magnificent and vibrant colours that communicate love for life of the population of the region.
Costumes of Chandigarh
Costumes of Chandigarh uphold a pleasing medley of rich heritage complemented with stylish modernity. The costumes of Chandigarh also showcase the city`s diverse cultural heritage and the unique beauty of enthnicity.
Costumes of Dadra and Nagar Haveli
The essence of the costumes of Dadar and Nagar Haveli is ethnic.
Costumes of Delhi
Costumes of Delhi embody the rich cultural heritage of the city while showcasing a unique fusion of traditional elements and modern trends. From the popular salwar kameez and sarees for women to the timeless kurta pyjamas and sherwanis for men, Delhi`s costumes make a vibrant and stylish fashion statement, reflecting the cosmopolitan nature of the city.
Costumes of Odisha
Costumes of Odisha is reflects the unique culture of the state. Odisha has an ancient culture and popular for classical dance.